New GE RR7 maintained relay switch comes equipped with 3 low voltage leads and is the best replacement option for discontinued GE relays for standard unlighted switches. These switch control relays are also a compatible replacement for standard Sierra Electric and Bryant brand solenoid relays and have a split low voltage (24V) coil to move the line voltage contact between latched ON and OFF positions.
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- GE RR7PBP (new replacement for RR7)
- rated 20 amp, 277 volt, 5-pin yellow plug end can be snipped off for use in non-digital panels
- suitable for use on circuit capable of delivering not more than 10 kA Sym. Amps, 277 Maximum.
- SPST (single pole single throw) maintained mechanical relay module, 6" wire leads with attached yellow plug
- 1.5" W x 1.75" D x 2.5" H; 7/8" diameter cylinder
- 3 low voltage leads - one red, one black, one blue
- coil: 21 - 30 VAC Class 2 momentary
- for copper wire only
- special coil design to resist burnout
- coil resistance is 75-85 ohms
- can operate in any position
- GE RR7PBP also replaces discontinued GE RR2, RR3 and RR5, RR7, RR7EZ and standard Bryant low volt solenoid relays
- (Use a GE RR9 relay if replacing a GE RR4, RR6 or RR8.)
- UL Listed 508G
- made in India for GE Lighting Solutions
- can be used to replace a 7601P Sierra relay or a Bryant relay of a similar type
Wiring Tip: To replace an older relay, connect the old red wire to the new red wire, the old black wire to the new black wire and the old white (or other color such as blue) wire to the new blue wire. The two screw terminals on the base of the relay function the same way so it doesn't matter which of the load/hot wires from the panel connects to each of them.
RR7EZ Note: Replaces the RR7EZ that had pre-attached quick connectors. Just cut off the yellow plug and add your own connections for easy installation.
3-Way Switches: Wire switches in parallel to create a three way switch setup, (switches at on two sides of a room, hallway, etc. that control one light). As long as the switches are all wired to the same relay, this will work as a 3-way, 4-way, etc., setup.
Operation: Each relay employs a split low-voltage (24V) coil to move the line voltage contact armature to the ON (OFF) latched position. Do not use DC with pilot or locator switches. GE low-voltage relays may be used to full-rated capacity for tungsten filament, ballast, resistive or motor loads. ( GRR7, GERR7, RR-7 ) Installation Notes: Mounts in standard 1/2" KO, .865" - .875" diameter 14 or 16 gauge material. 60C maximum ambient temperature. Operates in any position. Shop for coordinating low volt switches and wall covers at General Electric Lighting Devices & Switchplates.
Power Contact Latching
20A Tungsten 125VAC 1/2 HP motor at 110 - 125VAC
30A Ballast 277VAC 1 1/2 HP motor at 277VAC
30A Resistive 277VAC
20A Ballast 347VAC 1 1/2 HP motor at 347VAC
20A Resistive 347VAC
Q & A
The GE RR7PBP low voltage relay is a direct replacement for older GE brand RR2, RR3, RR5, and RR7 mechanical latching relays. Like the original models, the RR7PBP is a standard solenoid relay designed for use with GE RS series unlighted switches. Generally, the red was for on, the black for off, and the blue was the common. For lighted switches with pilot lights, the GE RR9 relay is required and is a current replacement for vintage RR4, RR6 and RR8 discontinued relay models.
My system does not use plug-ended relays. Will this version work?
Like the original models, the RR7PBP (or RR7 version) is a standard solenoid relay designed for use with GE RS series unlighted switches. Note that the RR7P version has a yellow plug-end which can be snipped off for systems that don't need the plug.
Why are low voltage replacement switches and switch plates so hard to find?
Vintage low voltage lighting systems were originally installed in mid-century U.S. homes during 1940 to 1980. Because of their unique remote control functionality, allowing homeowners to control all of their house lights from one master location, they were considered a high-end luxury feature for the time. Most of these once-popular electrical systems have now become obsolete, limiting the availability of low voltage replacement parts. Kyle Switch Plates currently carries updated name brand equipment from original low voltage pioneers such as General Electric, Touch-Plate and Remcon, and has researched the best replacement options for Bryant and Sierra wiring systems. Visit GE Low Voltage Replacement Parts for our full selection of rare low voltage switches, hard to find wall plates, remote control relays and mounting brackets that are regularly stocked and ready to ship at Kyle Switch Plates.
I hear a noisy buzzing sound from my relay. What does this mean?
The loud buzz sound you hear from your relay usually indicates your relay is malfunctioning, or the switch connected to that relay is malfunctioning. The way to test this for sure is to get a switch that is working perfectly fine from another room in your home, and wire it in place of the switch connected to the buzzing relay. If the relay continues to buzz, then you know your relay is bad. If the relay no longer buzzes, then you know the switch is bad.
How can I replace an old RR5 bus-type push-in relay?
Older style GE relays were at times designed to plug-in to a bus bar to make the connection. The RR-5 relays (non-pilot lighted) have been discontinued without direct replacements.
While there is no direct replacement for the RR5 or RR6 relays, with some custom adaptations you can use the current RR7 relays in your system.
The bus-bar for RR5 relays provided the Hot as well as the Neutral connection. The RR7 relays operate in a very similar way with a wall switch (hot coming in), switched leg (hot - going out).
The RR7 doesn't have connectors to plug into the HOT/Neutral on the bus bar, therefore the connections shall be:
White going to the load (light) shall be connected to the White feeding the bus-bar (not through the relay). Hot going to load (black wire) shall connect to one of the relay's screw terminals (doesn't matter which one). Hot feeding the relay (second black wire) needs to be connected to the black of bus bar and into the second terminal on the RR7 relay. These new RR7 relays should fit into the same knockout, but the wires will come out on the side instead of from the bottom. Can I use LED or CFL bulbs in a GE low voltage system? Yes, if you reduce the load for these bulbs. The maximum load for CFL and LED light bulbs is 1200W because of their higher in-rush current; you should not exceed 10 amps per relay. How do these RR7 relays work?
A mechanical latching relay works on the solenoid principle with two internal split coils. Energizing the ON coil will latch the coil in the ON position; energizing the OFF coil will latch the contact in the OFF position. What does each wire color coding mean?
Black is for the system OFF operation; red for the system ON operation; blue is rectified AC, relay common blue leads; white is switch common white leads; blue/white striped is 24 V.A.C.; and yellow is pilot light circuit. How can I test my old relay?
With the relay disconnected from the switches, try tapping the red wire to the white common wire to turn the lights on. Try tapping the black wire to the white common wire to turn the lights off. (Just a quick tap - don't maintain contact.) The relay should click. If this works consistently with no buzzing, then your relay is still OK and your switch is the likely the problem. How many relays can be controlled by a single switch?
GE recommends not exceeding 8 relays being controlled by the same switch in vintage systems because there is no sequencer: so when pressing the button, all the relay coils will be energized at same time. The current used is about 220 mA per relay, so having too many relays wired in parallel will drop the power voltage and the relays will not switch. If you need to control more than 8 relays, GE suggests upgrading to the new LightSweep systems. The new systems are sequencing the command to the relays so that each will receive a 100 msec pulse to change their state (on to off, off to on) one after the other. Tips When Replacing Failed Relays
To avoid damaging a new relay, we recommend replacing all vintage switches connected to the relay: this includes any switches at the light location as well as any switches in master panels connected to the same relay. (Relays seldom fail after a short period because of a manufacturer defect; they would simply not work at all upon installation.) Try to determine why the old relay failed to prevent damaging the new one, too. Relays typically fail when contact is maintained on a switch. This includes from a sticky, temperamental switch or from holding down a switch on a relay that is starting to fail. Maintaining contact causes the relay to heat up: the internal parts start to melt together and eventually will freeze the relay in its last position (whether on or off).